Seafood consumption is riding the crest of a wave – and chefs are playing a key role, says Richard McComb .
Munching on delicate canapés of Brixham red mullet, Isle of Arran scallops and Aberdeenshire pickled herring it was reassuring to know I was doing my bit to promote the worthy cause of fish consumption.
The seafood and Champagne get-together was held at the Bucklemaker in Birmingham, one of the region’s best fish restaurants, to marks its triumph in an award scheme designed to find the best and tastiest use of the oceans’ rich larder.
Top fish supplier Openshaws, which has a base in Birmingham, and Seafish, the Ƶ seafood authority, challenged cooks to conjure up dishes based on seasonal, wild and native produce. The emphasis was on the provenance of fish and sustainability, all with a view to protecting fish stocks for future generations while continuing to thrill diners’ tastebuds.
The top prize went to the Bucklemaker, in St Paul’s Square, which won over the judges with a dish of wild Devonshire turbot fillet, from Brixham, poached in a court bouillon, with fresh ginger and crab cakes.
Head chef Daniel Anderson said the victory underlined the restaurant’s commitment to serving the freshest fish and developing exciting new recipes. He said customers were always willing to try new fish varieties and flavour combinations. “We have always tried to open the door where customers’ tastes are concerned. I like to try and push exploration,” said Daniel.
To celebrate their win, Daniel and his right-hand man David Killingworth laid on a wonderful selection of canapés. The red mullet was pan-seared with saffron aioli and olive tapenade; Cornish local boat mackerel, smoked in house, was peppered with cream of horseradish and avruga caviar; and the Scottish scallops were marinated with dill, lime and juniper and accompanied with crushed quail eggs.
It’s hardly surprising fish outsells meat during the week at the restaurant and it is particularly popular for lighter lunch-time eating. Regular seafood dishes might feature scallops, currently being served with a cauliflower puree and tartare butter. “It’s been flying out of the kitchen. People love the simplicity of the dish,” said Daniel.
The competition coincided with a drive to raise awareness about the health benefits of eating fish and comes as popular consumption rides the crest of a wave.
According to Seafish’s recently published 2008 trade summary, a total of 780,600 tonnes of seafood worth £2.2 billion was imported into the Ƶ – up five per cent on the previous year. In cash terms, the Ƶ imports twice the amount of seafood it
exports and the countries it sources from reflects our traditional tastes in seafood, which can be summarised as:
* cod, haddock and other white fish from Iceland and the Faroe Islands;
* salmon from Norway and the USA;
* cold water prawns from Denmark;
* tuna from Mauritius;
* warm water prawns from Thailand.
Cod, tuna and salmon remain the big three for imports but tastes are changing as fleets come under pressure to adhere to sustainable fishing practices. The new kid on the block is pollock. Last year the Ƶ imported 32,071 tonnes of the fish – an annual increase of almost 500 per cent.
Nikki Hawkins, food services and events manager for Seafish, said the nation’s hunger for fish and shellfish was continuing unabated. Both the obesity epidemic and the health benefits of eating seafood were having a major impact on rising consumption.
The Food Standards Agency (FSA) advises eating at least two portions of fish a week, one of which should be oily fish. (A portion is defined as 140g.) The FSA is currently carrying out a nationwide consultation into the recommendations and is looking into the possible environmental impact of its dietary advice on fish stocks.
Nikki said demand for fish in the restaurant business could be attributed to the fact consumers were prepared to be more adventurous in their choices when dining out. “If you go out for a meal you are more likely to trust the chef to do John Dory than give it a try yourself at home,” said Nikki.
“There is no doubt eating out is helping to widen people’s knowledge of fish varieties. We have more than 100 fish on our borders but most people could probably only name half a dozen. That is set to change.”
Nikki said the chefs’ competition demonstrated the enduring popularity of seafood among diners, regardless of their geographic distance from the sea. “You cannot be more landlocked than Birmingham and to have restaurants such as the Bucklemaker doing great seafood is fantastic. And eating seafood is always going to do you good in health terms,” she added.
Robert Robbins, of Openshaws in Birmingham, said consumers were becoming increasingly concerned about the provenance of fish and he was delighted to see chefs rising to the challenge with exciting new creations as well as a dedication to the classics.
Latest figures show there are a 548 million servings of fish/seafood in commercial restaurants per year in Great Britain – with fried fish making up almost three-quarters of servings. In fact, the credit crunch has led to an unexpected boom in fish and chips, with sales of the nation’s favourite takeaway up by two per cent on last year.
